Park Parque del Buen Retiro (in English, “Park of the Pleasant Retreat”) in Madrid was originally created as a retreat for the Spanish Royal Family but has since become one of the most famous public parks in all of Spain. Also known as El Retiro, the public park features monuments, galleries, a large lake, 125 hectares of green space and is host to a variety of activities for both residents and visitors. Like other parks that have created engagement for audiences via a variety of monuments and activities, El Retiro has been able to utilize numerous unique elements and aspects of its history to become a landmark for Madrid that attracts people from all across Spain.
Becoming the Green Heart of Madrid
In the 1600s, King Philip IV of Spain was given several tracts of land for the Court’s recreational use in what would one day become El Retiro. Around this time, several buildings were erected very quickly, two of which are still standing: the “Casón del Buen Retiro” which served as a ballroom, and the “Salón de Reinos” (Hall of Kingdoms). Later rulers made other notable additions and changes to the layout.
Philip V (1700–1746) ordered the creation of a parterre, the only French-style garden in the complex. During the reign of Ferdinand VI, El Retiro was the setting for magnificent Italian operas. Charles III (1759–1788) saw to the beautification of its perimeter, replacing the old walls with elegant wrought-iron railings. Juan de Villanueva’s Astronomical Observatory was built during the reign of Charles IV (1788–1808).
The reign of Queen Isabella II saw profound changes to El Retiro. The gardens were transformed as fruit trees were planted and previously unplanted areas like the “Campo Grande”, were landscaped as well. The most profound change occurred in 1868 when she was deposed and exiled, which is when the park was opened to the public. El Retiro then began a process to become the green heart of the city.
This transformation continued into the 20th century which saw the installation of numerous monuments. However, these statues and monuments are just part of what makes the experiences there so distinct.
From Alfonso XII to the Crystal Palace to the Fallen Angel
El Retiro covers over 125 hectares and containing more than 15,000 trees and contains countless statues, fountains and commemorative monuments, many of which were added in the 20th century. These additions have turned El Retiro into a combination green space and open-air sculpture museum.
The most significant of these monuments is arguably the Monument to Alfonso XII that was erected next to the pond. Inaugurated in 1922, the monument is 30 meters high, 86 meters long, and 58 meters wide. At its center is the equestrian statue of King Alfonso XII, cast in bronze. There are three bronze reliefs in the pedestal while stairs descend from the central monument toward the lake. The monument consists of a hemicycle with a dual Ionic colonnade, on whose frieze the coats of arms of the different Spanish provinces of the period are sculpted, along with scenes that are reminiscent of typical professions of the region.
The Paseo de la Argentina, also known as the Paseo de las Estatuas, or the Statue Walk, is decorated with statues of kings that were sculpted between 1750 and 1753. The first statues were originally commissioned by Ferdinand VI to decorate the Royal Palace. Statues dedicated to Fernando IV, Carlos II, Alonso I and Sancho IV are just a few that line the Walk.
Other notable attractions in El Retiro include the Velázquez Palace and Crystal Palace which are both currently used as exhibition halls by the Reina Sofía Museum. The Crystal Palace is made almost entirely of glass. Elsewhere, the Rose Gardens feature over 4,000 blooming roses in various colors, shapes and sizes while the Parterre Francés holds a Mexican conifer that is nearly 400 years old and is believed to be Madrid’s oldest tree.
Other notable monuments in El Retiro include the Fountain of the Fallen Angel, monuments to Jacinto Benavente, Fray Pedro Ponce de Leon, and the Puerta de Dante. However, these are just a small handful of the many it contains, all of which have allowed both residents and visitors to connect with one another and the culture of Madrid throughout the park.
The Sights, Experiences and Activities of Madrid
Anyone can rent a rowing boat to tour the large artificial pond and get an especially unique look at the park as well as the Monument to Alfonso XII. On Sundays, musicians normally gather near this space to play various instruments. Visitors can also rent a bicycle from one of the bike rentals in the area. Near this area and throughout the park are several outdoor cafés and kiosks that provide El Retiro and vendors with a direct source of revenue.
The General Directorate of Cultural Heritage offers free-guided tours to the Alfonso XII viewpoint at different times of the year. That’s just one of the many tours of the park that are available though, and groups of all sizes have made El Retiro an essential stop of their trip, further highlighting the economic impact it has enabled.
For residents, El Retiro has become a great place to go rollerblading, for a long walk or simply to go for a run. Fields provide children with a place to play soccer and other sports, while numerous events take place throughout at year at El Retiro. Those include the Book Fair and the fireworks display held in honor of San Isidro, the city’s patron saint. Additionally, the Banda Sinfónica de Madrid has gathered in the bandstand close to the Calle d’Alcala on Sundays between late May and early October.
El Retiro Park is featured in countless maps of the city and on lists that showcase all of the sights and activities it contains. This popularity highlights how monuments can not only transform a space but also create a legacy that stretches across the past and into the future for a city.
Bridging the Past and Future of Madrid
Despite being located very close to the Puerta de Alcalá and other notable icons of Madrid, Parque del Buen Retiro has nonetheless been able to distinguish itself amongst these other attractions due to the variety of history and experiences that are contained within it. In making the park more than an urban green space, the city of Madrid has been able to create a legacy for the area that has and will continue to have a notable impact on the city and across Spain.
